Creative Director Tenures: Then vs Now

Today’s longevity of the creative directors for a single brand is different from the previous era. Creative directors like Stefano Pilati (2000–2012 in Saint Laurent), and Tom Ford (1994–2004) served in a single brand for more than 10 years. However, as time changed, the tenure duration of each creative director decreased. Anthony Vaccarello served in VERSUS Versace for two years. In some cases, the creative directors have worked for more than five years, but less than 10 years, in a brand (i.e., Clare Waight Keller for Chloé, and Hedi Slimane for Celine).

LVMH vs Kering: Power Moves

Conglomerates such as Kering and LVMH have the power to hire young and fresh talents as well as choose creative directors from their competitive companies. LVMH appointed Alexander McQueen as the creative director for Givenchy when he was 26 years old in 1996. It also hired Hedi Slimane (former creative director of Saint Laurent which was owned by Kering) as the creative director of Celine in 2018. In addition to that, the conglomerates hired new creative directors and bought some shares of their eponymous labels. In December 2000, Gucci Group (under the PPR Luxury Group) acquired 51% of the Alexander McQueen brand and made him its creative director. LVMH bought 60% of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White stake when he was appointed as the creative director of the Louis Vuitton Menswear line. Other examples include LVMH acquiring a minority stake in JW Anderson when the designer was chosen to be the creative director of Loewe.

LVMH Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton bought 60% of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White stake when he was appointed as the creative director of the Louis Vuitton Menswear line. Other examples include LVMH Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton acquiring a minority stake in JW Anderson when the designer was chosen to be the creative director of Loewe.

Closed Circle of Creative Leadership

While analysing this chart, one can note that the brands are following a tight circle when it comes to choosing the higher officials. More than the work and leadership experience, the houses show a sense of playing it safe. They appear to favour a closed circuit of familiar names, often opting for individuals with similar industry pedigrees or career trajectories. For instance, Raf Simons has been the creative director for four brands as of now, followed by Stuart Vevers, Stefano Pilati, and Walter Chiapponi for three labels.

Designers Who Defined Eras

In terms of long-standing roles, Karl Lagerfeld held the forts of Fendi (1965–2019), Chanel (1983–2019) and his eponymous label Karl Lagerfeld (1984–2019) till his death. Alessandro Sartori continues his tenure at Zegna since 2016, while Stuart Vevers has led Coach from 2013, shaping its aesthetic for over a decade. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who served as creative director at Dior from 2016, departed in 2025, closing an important chapter for the French maison.

Dior’s Shift: Anderson & Jones

Jonathan Anderson continues to balance his dual roles at JW Anderson (his eponymous label) and new tenancy at Dior, starting in 2025. He succeeds Kim Jones, who stepped down after serving as Creative Director of Menswear at Dior from 2018 to 2025. Jones had also previously held top roles at Louis Vuitton (2011-2018) and Fendi (2020-2024), where he directed womenswear, making him one of the few creatives to oversee multiple major houses simultaneously. JW Anderson departed from Loewe after serving for a decade - from 2013 to 2025. He played a pivotal role in transforming the brand into a critically acclaimed fashion house known for its artistic direction and modern craftsmanship. His appointment to oversee all three lines at Dior marks a significant milestone, which proves the industry’s confidence in his creative leadership and impact of his tenure at Loewe. Since 2017, Anderson has also partnered with Uniqlo on a successful long-term partnership that brought his design sensibilities to a broader global audience via accessible collections.

Chiuri, Piccioli & Waight Keller: Era Endings

Notably, Clare Waight Keller, who held roles at Chloé and later Givenchy, joined Uniqlo as the designer for UNIQLO : C womenswear project in 2023. She is also part of this rotating system of creative director appointments. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who worked alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli as co-creative directors at Valentino for several years, eventually took the solo helm at Dior, where she remained until her departure in 2025. Piccioli, on the other hand, closed his long tenure at Valentino in 2023 after more than two decades at the house, marking the end of one of fashion’s most admired and resonant creative eras.

Similar to Demna’s tenure at Balenciaga, which began in 2015, and Maria Grazia’s era at Dior (2016-2025), these long-standing directorships, lasting close to a decade or more, have become rarer in this recently revolving industry. Louise Trotter, who held key positions at Lacoste and now at Carven (2023–2024), adds further examples of how brands retain trusted names.

Bottega Veneta’s Evolution: Lee to Blazy

Matthieu Blazy started his senior tenure as Design Director for Calvin Klein from 2016-2019, under Raf Simons. Currently, the brand is led by Veronica Leoni, whose minimalistic sophistication is combined with the brand’s modern legacy. Blazy went on to become the Creative Director of Bottega Veneta from 2020-2024, where he succeeded Daniel Lee, the British designer credited for revamping the brand’s identity through sharp structure, bold accessories and the classic Pouch and Cassette bag. Lee had an impactful yet brief tenancy (2018-2021) in Bottega Veneta. He had a 17 year-period stint at Tomas Maier from 2001 to 2018.

Demna helped brainstorm the brand’s various hit pieces including the signature intrecciato weave “It” bag, during his tenancy in Bottega Veneta. His works gave the brand both commercial and critical acclaim with remarkable financial results. His appointment at Chanel from 2025 signals the significant vote of confidence, positioning him at the centre stage of one of the most prestigious brands in the luxury industry.

Short-Lived Tenures and Instability

There are also some situations where the creative directorships are short-lived. Chiapponi’s appointment at Blumarine in 2023 marks yet another move within this tight loop. However, he stepped down after serving for just a year in 2024. Meanwhile, Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci in 2025 symbolised another short-lived creative chapter in the house. Louise Trotter’s tenure at Carven (2023–2024) adds to this scenario, highlighting how even seasoned designers face these challenges in timelines.

Gender Gap in Creative Roles

According to this latest Fashion Ludo infographic, the gender imbalance in top creative roles across luxury fashion remains constant. Out of the 18 creative directors that we visualised, only three are women – Maria Grazia Chiuri, Clare Waight Keller, and Louise Trotter. The remaining 15 are male directors. Some of them held multiple high-ranking positions across major fashion houses. While assessing the chart’s brand variety, which comprises 34 prominent brands, we observed that women occupied less than 10% of total directorship roles listed. Whereas, male designers dominated both current and previous creative leadership positions, with names like Walter Chiapponi and Raf Simons appearing repeatedly across different brands.

Virginie Viard departed from Chanel in 2025, marking the end of a significant era for the maison. Her exit comes at a time when the number of women in creative director roles is declining, despite years of diversity and inclusion (DEI) pledges. From Maria Grazia Chiuri leaving Dior to Clare Waight Keller no longer helming Chloé, which is now led by Chemena Kamali, which is now led by Chemena Kamali - a brand alumna who once worked under Phoebe Philo and returned in 2023 as its creative director, the fashion map in 2025 is largely dominated by men and overwhelmingly white.

Diversity & Celebrity Appointments

There are creative directors who are from the Black community such as Pharrell Williams of Louis Vuitton, who has also collaborated with Tiffany & Co., Chanel and Moncler, and Maximilian Davis from Ferragamo. Olivier Rousteing, who has been the creative director of Balmain since 2011, remains one of the most prominent and earliest Black creative leads in a global luxury brand. Other than them is the Japan-based Nigo, the creative head of Kenzo. Late Virgil Abloh from Off-White is another example of a creative director from another diversity. There is a new trend of appointing celebrities, especially from the music field, to lead the brand. For example, A$AP Rocky as the creative director of PUMA x Formula 1 in 2023 as well as Ray-Ban in 2025, and Rihanna for PUMA.

Toward a Fairer Future

The fashion industry’s game of creative direction involves a high-stakes cycle of legacy, power and vision. As the brands are oscillating between reinvention and heritage, the appointment patterns show heavy reliance on familiar faces and networks. This ludo-inspired infographic revealed that despite a few notable shifts, the creative leadership of luxury fashion remains concentrated within a tight circle of notable names.

While there are occasional appointments of culturally-diverse and younger talent or cross-industry collaborators making the headlines in this role, the systematic issue persists a bit. The underrepresentation of women and people of colour in top creative roles disconnects the link between the brands’ public commitments on inclusivity and its internal hiring process.

This visualisation shows the need for a more open, future-forward fashion system that not only values creative excellence but also broadens its understanding and implements a space where a worthy person can represent and redefine luxury with fair chances. Until then, the game remains like an infinite circle, even if the players are changing.

Cover Image Courtesy: Grazia, The New York Times, Gagosian, and The Business of Fashion.