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Gucci’s Francesca Bellettini, Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, Chanel’s Leena Nair and Bulgari’s Mary Katrantzou - how women are redefining fashion leadership.
Trends
16 October, 2025
Table of contents
The global fashion industry was valued at around US $1,79 trillion in 2024, reaffirming its position as one of the world’s largest consumer industries. While women have long been the creative backbone of fashion, executive and creative leadership at the very top has traditionally been dominated by men. That balance, however, is gradually shifting.
From corporate boardrooms to design studios, women are increasingly taking centre stage as CEOs, co-CEOs, and creative directors, redefining what leadership in fashion looks like. Today’s female leaders are not only guardians of heritage maisons but also agents of innovation - steering billion-euro brands through digital transformation, sustainability imperatives, and cultural change.
This article spotlights some of the most influential women in fashion today, tracing their career milestones, landmark achievements, and impact on the industry’s future direction.
Background: Born in Brussels in 1946, Diane Von Furstenberg launched her namesake label in New York in 1972. She rose to fame with her iconic wrap dress, which became a global symbol of effortless power dressing for women in the 1970s.
Landmark Achievement: Her wrap dress sold in the millions, establishing DVF as a pioneering brand that combined freedom, femininity, and professional confidence. By 1976, she had appeared on the cover of Newsweek as “the most marketable woman since Coco Chanel.”
What She Did: After relaunching the brand in 1997, von Fürstenberg transformed DVF into an international lifestyle label available in more than 70 countries. She has served as Chairwoman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) from 2006 to 2019, where she championed American fashion and emerging designers.
What She Is Doing Now: Today, she remains Chairwoman of Diane Von Furstenberg and leads global initiatives through the Diane von Fürstenberg Foundation, supporting women’s leadership, human rights, and environmental causes. She also co-founded Vital Voices, a nonprofit that mentors and empowers female leaders worldwide.
Background: Uruguayan-born Hearst co-founded Candela before launching her namesake brand in 2015, built on sustainability and craftsmanship.
Landmark Achievement: She staged fashion’s first carbon-neutral runway show with her SS20 collection and has been outspoken about reducing waste and plastic in luxury.
Chloé Tenure: As Creative Director of Chloé (2020–2023), she led the maison to become the first European luxury brand with B-Corp certification in 2021, a milestone in sustainable luxury.
Current Focus: Since leaving Chloé in 2023, she has concentrated on her own brand and continues to be a leading advocate for climate action and sustainable innovation in fashion.
Background: Born in Corrèze, France, in 1991, Marine Serre studied at La Cambre Mode(s) in Brussels. Before launching her own label, she gained experience at prestigious houses including Maison Margiela, Dior, Alexander McQueen, and Balenciaga, where she honed her avant-garde approach to design.
Landmark Achievement: After graduating in 2016, Serre launched her eponymous brand and quickly gained international attention for her hybrid aesthetic blending couture techniques with upcycled materials. Her signature crescent-moon motif became a symbol of contemporary eco-futurism. In 2017, she won the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers - one of the youngest recipients ever - propelling her into the global spotlight.
Design Philosophy: Serre’s work merges innovation and sustainability, combining sportswear, tailoring, and regenerated fabrics. Her collections often explore themes of climate crisis, identity, and adaptation, positioning her as a leading voice in the movement toward circular luxury.
What She Is Doing Now: As of 2025, Marine Serre continues to lead her independent label from Paris, maintaining full creative control and a vertically integrated model that prioritises upcycling and ethical production. Her collections, presented through immersive formats and short films, continue to challenge traditional fashion structures while inspiring a new generation of conscious designers.
*Background: *Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou launched her namesake label in London in 2008 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Dubbed the “Queen of Print,” she quickly rose to prominence for her intricate digital prints and trompe-l’œil illusions that redefined textile innovation in fashion. Her early collections earned international acclaim for transforming ordinary motifs - such as stamps, perfume bottles, and architecture - into extraordinary couture-level artistry.
Landmark Achievement: Over the past 15 years, Katrantzou has built one of the most distinctive independent fashion houses in London, known for its conceptual storytelling and technical mastery. Her work has been exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert Museum, reflecting her crossover between art, design, and fashion.
Collaborations: Beyond ready-to-wear, Mary Katrantzou has designed rugs for The Rug Company, blending her bold visual language with interior design, and has collaborated with brands such as Adidas and Longchamp.
Bulgari Appointment: In March 2024, Bulgari named Katrantzou its first-ever Creative Director of Leather Goods & Accessories, expanding the maison’s design leadership beyond jewellery. Her role focuses on handbags, small leather goods, and accessories - categories she is infusing with colour, craftsmanship, and symbolism inspired by Bulgari’s heritage.
What She Is Doing Now: Katrantzou continues to run her London-based label while leading creative direction for Bulgari’s accessories division. Her first full Bulgari collections are launching through 2025, while her own brand remains a showcase of vibrant artistry and technical precision, merging cultural storytelling with collectible design.
Background: Granddaughter of Prada’s founder Mario Prada, Miuccia Prada joined the family business in the late 1970s after earning a PhD in political science. Her intellectual approach and unconventional path set the stage for Prada’s transformation.
Landmark Achievement: In the 1980s, she revolutionised luxury with the introduction of black nylon backpacks and handbags, redefining what luxury materials could be. In 1993, she launched Miu Miu, a line inspired by her own wardrobe, adding a younger, experimental edge to the group.
What She Did: For decades, Prada positioned the group at the forefront of conceptual fashion, blending art, architecture, and design into both collections and retail. She and her husband Patrizio Bertelli co-led the company as co-CEOs until January 2023, when they stepped down as part of a succession plan. Andrea Guerra was appointed CEO, with their son Lorenzo Bertelli being groomed for future leadership.
What She Is Doing Now: Since February 2020, Prada has shared creative direction of the Prada brand with Raf Simons, while continuing as sole Creative Director of Miu Miu. Recently, Miu Miu has outpaced Prada in growth, underscoring her continued influence in shaping fashion’s cultural and commercial direction.
Background: Born in Paris in 1973 and raised in London, Phoebe Philo studied fashion at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 1996. She began her career as Stella McCartney’s assistant at Chloé before becoming Creative Director of Chloé (2001-2006).
Landmark Achievement: In 2008, she joined Celine as Creative Director, revitalising the house with her minimalist, functional yet luxurious designs, introducing cult pieces like the Boston Tote and fur-lined sandals. She won British Designer of the Year (2005, 2010) and CFDA International Designer (2011).
What She Did: Phoebe Philo stepped down from Celine in 2017, after nearly a decade, leaving an enduring legacy of intellectual minimalism and wearable elegance.
What She Is Doing Now: After a long hiatus, she launched her eponymous label, Phoebe Philo Studio, in late 2023, debuting a collection of wardrobe essentials that reflect her philosophy of “permanence.” She remains one of the most closely watched independent designers in 2025.
Background: Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969 and made her Paris debut in 1981, instantly recognised for her avant-garde vision.
Landmark Achievement: Her 1981 collection, with its deconstruction and stark black palette, challenged beauty norms and cemented her as a radical innovator.
Expansion: She grew Comme des Garçons into a multi-line global brand, including Comme des Garçons Play and Black.
Retail Innovation: With her husband Adrian Joffe, she launched Dover Street Market in 2004, pioneering experiential, gallery-like retail.
Current Role: Now in her early 80s, she remains Creative Director of Comme des Garçons and oversees Dover Street Market, maintaining her influence as one of fashion’s most enduring visionaries.
Background: The daughter of designer John Rocha, Simone Rocha studied at Central Saint Martins and debuted her namesake label in 2010 at London Fashion Week. She quickly became recognised as one of the most promising voices of her generation.
Landmark Achievement: Rocha is celebrated for her romantic yet subversive aesthetic, marked by voluminous silhouettes, intricate embellishments, and a play between femininity and edge. Her influence was recognised with the British Womenswear Designer of the Year award at the Fashion Awards in 2016.
Collaborations: She has broadened her reach through high-profile partnerships, including the H&M capsule collection in 2021 and her work with the Moncler Genius project, which brought her vision to wider audiences.
What She Is Doing Now: Rocha continues to lead her independent brand with full creative control, balancing critical acclaim and commercial growth. In 2024, she was invited as a guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture, underscoring her influence and cementing her position as a key figure in global fashion.
Background: The daughter of Paul McCartney, Stella McCartney graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1995 and launched her label in 2001 in partnership with the Gucci Group (now Kering Group).
Sustainability Pioneer: She was one of the first major luxury designers to ban leather, fur, and PVC, making sustainability and ethics central to her brand long before it became an industry-wide priority.
Landmark Collaborations: Her ongoing partnership with Adidas, launched in 2005, has become one of fashion’s most successful long-term collaborations, merging high-performance sportswear with sustainable innovation.
What She Did: Stella McCartney bought back Kering Group’s 50% stake in 2018, regaining full control, and in 2019 entered into a strategic partnership with LVMH, which acquired a minority stake in her brand while appointing her as Global Sustainability Adviser to Bernard Arnault.
What She Is Doing Now: In January 2025, she bought back LVMH’s stake, once again becoming the sole owner of her label. Despite this return to independence, she continues to act as Global Ambassador on Sustainability for LVMH, advising the group on environmental innovation.
Background: Born in 1966, Burch studied at the University of Pennsylvania before working in PR and design at Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, and Loewe.
Landmark Achievement: She launched her label in 2004 with a boutique in New York. Her signature tunics and Reva ballet flats became global bestsellers, driving the brand to over $1 billion in sales.
What She Did: Beyond design, she has built the company into a global lifestyle brand with over 250 boutiques worldwide and a strong department store presence. In 2009, she founded the Tory Burch Foundation to support women entrepreneurs through capital and education.
What She Is Doing Now: In 2025, Burch serves as Executive Chair and Chief Creative Officer, while her husband Pierre-Yves Roussel is CEO. She continues to lead design and brand vision while steering philanthropic work through her foundation.
Background: Ahrendts began her career in American retail before joining Burberry in 2006 as CEO. She was one of the first women to lead a major British luxury brand.
Landmark Achievement: She spearheaded Burberry’s digital transformation, investing in e-commerce, social media, and technology. Under her leadership, revenues nearly tripled, and Burberry became a case study in luxury modernisation.
What She Did: Beyond growth, she repositioned Burberry as a digitally savvy luxury player, pioneering initiatives such as live-streamed runway shows and strong brand storytelling.
What She Is Doing Now: After leaving Burberry in 2014, Ahrendts joined Apple as SVP of Retail, where she reimagined the Apple Store as a community hub. She now serves on boards including Ralph Lauren, Airbnb, and WPP, where she advises on customer experience and digital strategy.
Background: Corinne Le Foll has built a distinguished career in luxury, spanning senior leadership roles across prestigious maisons. Before joining Bulgari, she served as Managing Director of French jeweller Dinh Van, where she expanded international growth and strengthened brand positioning.
Landmark Achievement: In July 2024, Bulgari appointed Le Foll as CEO of its Jewellery and High Jewellery Division, a role central to the house’s identity and one of its most profitable categories. She succeeded Mauro Di Roberto, bringing fresh vision to one of LVMH’s most strategically important divisions.
What She Did: At Dinh Van, she was credited with revitalising the brand through creative partnerships and retail expansion. Earlier, she held international management roles at Piaget and Chaumet, building a reputation for balancing creativity with business strategy.
What She Is Doing Now: At Bulgari, Le Foll is tasked with steering its jewellery and high jewellery business into its next growth phase, reinforcing its Roman heritage while expanding its global appeal, particularly in Asia and the Middle East. Her appointment underscores LVMH’s confidence in female leadership for its core métiers.
Background: Born in 1975, Arnault studied at EDHEC Business School and the London School of Economics before beginning her career at McKinsey & Co. She joined Dior in 2001 as commercial director, became deputy managing director in 2008, and later served as EVP at Louis Vuitton (Louis Vuitton Malletier). She was also appointed to the LVMH Board in 2003.
Landmark Achievement: In February 2023, she was named Chair & CEO of Christian Dior Couture, succeeding Pietro Beccari. She became the first woman to lead Dior and one of the most senior executives in LVMH’s next generation.
What She Did: At Vuitton, she was instrumental in repositioning the brand and strengthening accessories. She also oversaw the appointment of Raf Simons at Dior after Galliano’s exit and launched the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2014.
What She Is Doing Now: As Dior CEO, she has taken strategic steps to strengthen both men’s and women’s businesses, including the 2025 appointment of JW Anderson as Dior’s creative lead across both categories. Arnault is positioning Dior to weather a slowdown in luxury demand while reinforcing its role as a cultural and commercial powerhouse.
Background: Francesca Bellettini began her career in investment banking at Goldman Sachs before moving into fashion with senior roles at Prada, Gucci, and Bottega Veneta. In 2013, she became CEO of Saint Laurent, where she quickly established herself as one of the most effective executives in the Kering Group.
Landmark Achievement: At Saint Laurent, she orchestrated one of the most successful brand revivals in luxury. Sales rose from around €472 million in 2012 to €3,2 billion by 2023, driven by a sharpened leather goods strategy, retail expansion, and strong creative synergy with Anthony Vaccarello.
What She Did: In September 2023, Bellettini was promoted to Deputy CEO of Kering Group in charge of Brand Development, overseeing strategic alignment across the group’s maisons. This role positioned her as a key lieutenant in Kering Group’s broader restructuring.
What She Is Doing Now: In September 2025, Bellettini was appointed CEO of Gucci, succeeding Stefano Cantino, who held the role for only nine months. Her mandate is to reverse Gucci’s 25 % sales decline, restore its aspirational positioning, and rebuild momentum in partnership with new creative director Demna.
Background: Born in India in 1969, Nair studied engineering at Walchand College and later joined Unilever Group, where she built a 30-year career. She rose to become Chief Human Resources Officer (CHRO), the first woman and youngest person to hold the role.
Landmark Achievement: In January 2022, she became Global CEO of Chanel, making her the only woman of colour to lead a major luxury brand.
What She Did: Nair brought a people-first approach to Chanel, focusing on culture, sustainability, and inclusive growth. Under her leadership, Chanel reported revenues of $19,7billion in 2023 (+14,6%) and planned record investments in retail and craft expansion.
What She Is Doing Now: In 2025, she is steering Chanel through a slowing luxury cycle by moderating price increases and prioritising market expansion in India, Mexico, and Canada.
Background: As the daughter of Kiton founder Ciro Paone, Maria Giovanna Paone was born into the family’s tailoring business in Naples. She officially joined the company in 1986, immersing herself in the brand’s values of craftsmanship and understated luxury.
Landmark Achievement: In 1995, she was the driving force behind the creation of Kiton’s womenswear line, successfully expanding the house beyond its traditional menswear heritage. This move positioned Kiton as a complete luxury brand while retaining its artisanal DNA.
Emphasis on Slow Fashion: Paone is a strong advocate for “slow fashion,” focusing on exceptional tailoring, discreet luxury, and artisanal quality. Her philosophy reinforces Kiton’s status as one of the most exclusive luxury houses in the world.
Current Role: She serves as President and Creative Director of Kiton’s womenswear division, overseeing its continued international expansion while safeguarding the brand’s heritage of handmade craftsmanship.
Recent Honour: In June 2025, she was awarded the title of Cavaliere del Lavoro (Knight of Labor) by the President of Italy, recognising her outstanding contributions to Italian entrepreneurship, luxury manufacturing, and cultural excellence.
Background: Lepoivre joined Loewe in 2016 as CEO after senior roles at Celine, where she gained experience in merchandising and operations.
Landmark Achievement: She partnered closely with JW Anderson to transform Loewe from a traditional Spanish leather house into one of LVMH’s fastest-growing and most culturally relevant brands.
What She Did: Lepoivre led Loewe’s restructuring in phases: aligning internal teams, diversifying products beyond leather goods, and refining global distribution. Under her leadership, the brand has scaled through celebrity partnerships, cultural collaborations (e.g., Studio Ghibli, On Running), and bold marketing initiatives.
What She Is Doing Now: In 2025, she continues steering Loewe with a focus on authenticity and adaptability, balancing growth with heritage. She stresses flexibility in leadership, careful use of collaborations, and leveraging TikTok and digital platforms to reach younger audiences without diluting brand values.
Background: A long-time managing director of Groupe Artémis (1992-2017), François Pinault’s holding company, Barbizet became one of France’s most respected business leaders.
Landmark Achievement: In 2014, she was appointed CEO and Chairwoman of Christie’s International - the first woman to lead the auction house - steering it through digital transformation and record sales until 2016.
What She Did: She also served as Vice-Chairwoman of Kering Group’s board until stepping down in 2018, further cementing her influence in the luxury and art industries.
What She Is Doing Now: Barbizet is Chairwoman of the French High Committee on Corporate Governance (HCGE) and runs her own investment company, Temaris & Associés. She remains a role model for women in corporate leadership.
Background: Born in 1968, Merle studied at Sciences Po, Université Paris Dauphine, and earned an MBA from ESSEC Business School. She began her career at Le Bon Marché, eventually becoming commercial and image director.
Landmark Achievement: In 2017, she was appointed CEO of Celine, succeeding Marco Gobbetti. She became the third female CEO of an LVMH brand.
What She Did: Merle oversaw the arrival of Hedi Slimane in 2018 and managed the maison’s rebrand to “CELINE,” as well as the introduction of menswear and fragrances, expanding the brand’s scope. She also became President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine in 2019.
What She Is Doing Now: In 2025, Merle continues to lead Celine, overseeing 165 stores worldwide and driving global growth, particularly among Gen Z consumers, while balancing Slimane’s creative vision with commercial expansion
Background: Onofri has over 20 years of luxury leadership experience, with senior positions at Bulgari and Bally, where she rose to CEO of EMEA and later Chief Commercial Officer of Global Wholesale.
Landmark Achievement: From 2023 to January 2025, she was Brand President of Napapijri (VF Corporation), credited with repositioning the brand and hiring its first global creative director, Christopher Raeburn, known for his sustainable credentials.
**What She Did: On 26 February 2025, Onofri became CEO of Miu Miu, succeeding Benedetta Petruzzo. The appointment came after Miu Miu recorded +97% revenue growth in the first nine months of 2024, reaching €854 million.
What She Is Doing Now: Reporting directly to Prada SPA CEO Andrea Guerra, Onofri is charged with sustaining Miu Miu’s unprecedented growth momentum, balancing its viral, youth-driven appeal with luxury positioning and long-term brand equity.
Background: Kamali studied at Central Saint Martins in London and worked at Chloé multiple times in her early career - first under Phoebe Philo and later with Clare Waight Keller. She also worked at Saint Laurent under Anthony Vaccarello, honing her understanding of French luxury codes before returning to Chloé.
Landmark Achievement: In October 2023, she was appointed Creative Director of Chloé, succeeding Gabriela Hearst.
Her first collection for Autumn/Winter 2024, presented during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024, was met with strong acclaim from critics and buyers. She was praised for reviving Chloé’s classic bohemian and free-spirited aesthetic, referencing Karl Lagerfeld’s 1970s-era influence while infusing it with contemporary ease.
What She Did: Kamali has reoriented Chloé around its core identity of femininity and effortless style, drawing on house archives to re-establish clarity of vision. This reset was welcomed after years of creative transition.
What She Is Doing Now: She continues to shape Chloé’s future, reinforcing its bohemian codes with a modern sensibility described as the “freshest déjà vu.” Kamali also aligns with the maison’s sustainability commitments, as Chloé became a “Société à Mission” (purpose-driven company) in April 2023 and secured its B Corp recertification in October 2024.
Background: British designer Louise Trotter studied at Newcastle Polytechnic before beginning her career in menswear at Whistles, Jigsaw, and Gap Inc.. She later became Creative Director of Joseph (2009-2018), where she refined a minimalist, tailored aesthetic rooted in British pragmatism. In 2018, she joined Lacoste as its first female Creative Director, modernising the brand’s sportswear heritage.
Landmark Achievement: In August 2025, Trotter was appointed Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Matthieu Blazy. Her arrival marks a new chapter for the Italian maison, known for its artisanal leathercraft and understated luxury. Trotter’s design language - clean, precise, and quietly innovative - aligns with Bottega Veneta’s ethos of “stealth wealth,” positioning her as a natural successor to its tradition of discreet sophistication.
What She Did: At Lacoste, Trotter revitalised the brand with architectural cuts, gender-fluid tailoring, and refined athleticism, broadening its appeal beyond sport. Her disciplined approach to design earned critical recognition for balancing innovation with brand identity.
What She Is Doing Now: As of late 2025, Trotter is leading Bottega Veneta’s creative direction, with her debut collection expected in 2026. She is tasked with sustaining the brand’s post-pandemic momentum while deepening its narrative around craftsmanship, functionality, and enduring design - core values that resonate with Kering Group’s long-term vision for quiet luxury.
Background: Trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Vanhee-Cybulski refined her craft at houses known for minimalism and subtle luxury, including Maison Martin Margiela, Celine under Phoebe Philo, and The Row. These experiences shaped her restrained, detail-driven approach to design.
Landmark Achievement: Appointed in June 2014 as Artistic Director of Hermes womenswear, she succeeded Christophe Lemaire and debuted her first collection for Autumn/Winter 2015.
Vanhee-Cybulski embodies Hermes’ discreet elegance, balancing timeless refinement with quiet innovation. She expanded ready-to-wear’s role within the house, ensuring it complements Hermès’ core métiers in leather goods and silk while maintaining understated sophistication.
What She Did: Over a decade, she reinforced Hermes’ identity through subtle evolution rather than radical reinvention, cementing the brand’s reputation as the ultimate expression of timeless French luxury.
What She Is Doing Now: As of 2025, Vanhee-Cybulski has marked ten years at Hermes, continuing to lead womenswear collections with a focus on refinement, continuity, and heritage craftsmanship, ensuring apparel remains a seamless extension of the maison’s values.
Background: Born in Rome in 1964, Maria Grazia Chiuri studied at the Istituto Europeo di Design before beginning her career at Fendi in the late 1980s. There, she played a key role in creating the iconic Baguette bag alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi, establishing her reputation for uniting craftsmanship with contemporary appeal. She later joined Valentino, where she co-led the brand with Pierpaolo Piccioli, and in 2016 became the first woman ever appointed Artistic Director of Dior, reshaping the maison’s creative narrative.
Landmark Achievement: At Dior, Chiuri redefined modern femininity in luxury fashion. Through collections that fused couture craftsmanship with feminist discourse, she introduced globally recognised statements such as “We Should All Be Feminists” and championed women artisans through initiatives like the Dior Artisans programme. Her tenure strengthened Dior’s commercial success while embedding social consciousness into its DNA.
What She Did: Over nearly a decade at Dior, she built one of the most coherent creative visions in modern luxury, balancing couture heritage with contemporary activism. She also expanded Dior’s global presence through high-profile shows in Marrakesh, Seville, and Mexico, highlighting local craftsmanship and cultural collaboration.
What She Is Doing Now: In October 2025, Chiuri returned to her roots as Chief Creative Officer at Fendi, nearly three decades after starting her career there. She now oversees women’s, men’s, and couture collections, succeeding Kim Jones and following Silvia Venturini Fendi’s tenure. Her debut collection, expected for Autumn/Winter 2026, will merge Fendi’s Roman heritage with her intellectual, feminist sensibility, marking one of the most anticipated creative transitions in luxury fashion.
Background: Born in Macclesfield, England, in 1974, Sarah Burton studied at Central Saint Martins, where she interned with Alexander McQueen and went on to work alongside him for more than 14 years. After his death in 2010, she became Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, where she masterfully balanced emotional artistry with technical precision.
Landmark Achievement: Burton led McQueen for over a decade, expanding its womenswear and couture presence while preserving the brand’s theatrical DNA. She gained global recognition for designing Catherine, Princess of Wales’s wedding gown in 2011 - an emblem of craftsmanship and modern British elegance. Under her tenure, the house achieved both creative acclaim and consistent financial growth within Kering Group.
What She Did: At McQueen, Burton redefined the label’s direction, introducing softer tailoring, poetic narrative, and a focus on female strength. Her collections often explored themes of nature, emotion, and legacy, bridging the line between romanticism and rebellion.
What She Is Doing Now: In October 2025, Burton was appointed Creative Director of Givenchy, succeeding Matthew M. Williams. Her debut collection, scheduled for Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, is expected to blend British craftsmanship with Givenchy’s Parisian sophistication. Early previews indicate a return to couture-level detailing and sculptural silhouettes, marking a renewed focus on timeless glamour and technical excellence. Burton’s appointment not only signals LVMH’s trust in her creative maturity but also reinforces the growing presence of female visionaries leading its marquee maisons.
Background: A third-generation member of the Fendi family and granddaughter of the house’s founders, Silvia Venturini Fendi officially joined the maison in 1992. She grew up immersed in Roman craftsmanship and family-led design, which continues to shape her creative approach.
Landmark Achievement: In 1997, she created the Fendi Baguette bag, one of the most iconic accessories in fashion history. The Baguette defined the “It bag” era and became a cultural phenomenon, boosting Fendi’s profile globally.
Her success in accessories and menswear has been a cornerstone of Fendi’s growth, especially following its acquisition by LVMH. These categories remain among the brand’s most profitable pillars.
What She Did: Venturini Fendi long oversaw Fendi’s menswear and accessories divisions, balancing house heritage with a modern sensibility and ensuring creative continuity across decades of change. Following Kim Jones’s departure in October 2024, she temporarily assumed full creative control of all Fendi collections. Her Autumn/Winter 2025 coed show, marking Fendi’s 100th anniversary, was praised for its return to Roman roots and understated elegance. She continued as Artistic Director for accessories, menswear, and childrenswear until October 2025, concluding an era of family-led creative leadership at the maison.
Background: Italian designer Veronica Leoni studied at the Università La Sapienza in Rome and began her career under Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo at Celine, later joining Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and The Row. Her experience across European and American houses has shaped a refined yet architectural aesthetic - rooted in minimalism but attuned to cultural fluidity.
Landmark Achievement: In June 2024, Leoni was appointed Creative Director of Calvin Klein, becoming the first designer to lead all of the brand’s lines - Calvin Klein Collection, Jeans, and Underwear - since Raf Simons’s departure in 2018. Her arrival signals PVH Corporation’s renewed ambition to reposition Calvin Klein as a leader in modern American luxury.
What She Did: Before Calvin Klein, Leoni founded her own label QUIRA in 2021, which earned critical acclaim for its sculptural tailoring and emotional precision, and was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize in 2023. Her work reflects a balance of conceptual rigour and everyday wearability, aligning naturally with Calvin Klein’s design DNA.
What She Is Doing Now: Leoni’s debut Spring/Summer 2026 collection is anticipated as one of the most important relaunches in American fashion. Drawing on her European tailoring background, she aims to elevate Calvin Klein through a minimalist, sensuous lens - redefining its codes of modernity, purity, and power dressing for a global audience. Her appointment underscores a new era for PVH Corporation, reinforcing the return of female creative leadership in American heritage brands.
Background: Nichanian joined Hermes in 1988 after working at Cerruti 1881, becoming one of the longest-serving creative directors in luxury.
Landmark Achievement: She is credited with defining Hermes menswear as an independent and respected category, blending tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and quiet modernity.
What She Did: Across nearly four decades, she elevated menswear from a niche complement to leather goods into a strategic pillar for Hermes, with collections celebrated for craftsmanship and timeless appeal.
What She Is Doing Now: In 2025, she continues to lead the men’s division, recently showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Hong Kong. Robb Report notes her longevity and understated vision, describing her work as “impeccable, discreet luxury” that has earned her cult status among connoisseurs.
Background: Viard joined Chanel in 1987 as an intern, later working with Karl Lagerfeld at Chloé before returning to Chanel. She became his closest collaborator and succeeded him as Artistic Director in 2019.
Landmark Achievement: Over her five-year tenure, she stabilised Chanel post-Lagerfeld, more than doubling ready-to-wear sales since 2018 and delivering critically acclaimed shows, including the Métiers d’Art show in Dakar (2022), Chanel’s first in Africa.
What She Did: Viard renewed Chanel’s codes with softer, feminine collections, while maintaining continuity with Lagerfeld’s vision. She fostered inclusivity through ambassadorships and collaborations with actresses like Margaret Qualley and Riley Keough.
What She Is Doing Now: In June 2024, Chanel confirmed her departure after five years. While she has not announced her next move, her exit reflects the industry trend of creative director reshuffles to refresh brand momentum.
Despite women shaping fashion as its primary consumers and forming the majority of its creative workforce, representation at the very top remains uneven. Luxury conglomerates such as LVMH, Kering Group, and Richemont have improved female board participation to meet EU quotas, but operational leadership roles - CEO, CFO, and Artistic Director - are still disproportionately male.
Female CEOs: The appointments of Francesca Bellettini at Gucci (2025), Delphine Arnault at Dior (2023), Leena Nair at Chanel (2022), Pascale Lepoivre at Loewe (2016), Séverine Merle at Celine (2017), Silvia Onofri at Miu Miu (2025), and Corinne Le Foll at Bulgari High Jewellery (2024) mark significant progress. Yet, these remain exceptions rather than the rule across conglomerate portfolios.
Creative Directors: While women dominate fashion education worldwide, only a minority reach the creative helm of major maisons. Figures such as Maria Grazia Chiuri (Fendi, 2025), Chemena Kamali (Chloé), Sarah Burton (Givenchy), Louise Trotter (Bottega Veneta), Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski (Hermes Womenswear), Véronique Nichanian (Hermes Menswear), and Mary Katrantzou (Bulgari Accessories) signal meaningful progress. Their leadership demonstrates that aesthetic authority and commercial success can coexist under female direction, though the overall balance still skews male across conglomerates.
Independent Entrepreneurs: Outside of conglomerates, women such as Stella McCartney, Simone Rocha, Phoebe Philo, Rei Kawakubo, and Gabriela Hearst continue to shape the global conversation. Their impact on sustainability, inclusivity, and cultural innovation is setting benchmarks that large houses are increasingly compelled to follow.
The structural challenge is clear: the issue is not a shortage of talent but a shortage of opportunity. Hiring conservatism, perceived risks, and cultural biases continue to slow progress. Yet, the tide is turning as women prove their ability to guide both heritage houses and independent labels to global success.
The trajectory for female leadership is positive, but the pace remains gradual. Conglomerates are opening more space for women in top roles, yet appointments are still selective and often tied to proven financial track records.
Conglomerates: Women now lead flagship maisons such as Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Loewe, and Bulgari divisions, proving that change at scale is possible. Still, the majority of the 75+ brands across LVMH, Kering Group, and Richemont remain male-led.
Creative leadership: While long-serving leaders like Silvia Venturini Fendi and Véronique Nichanian demonstrate stability, newer appointments such as Chemena Kamali and Mary Katrantzou show the potential of fresh female voices shaping heritage codes.
Independents: Designers like Stella McCartney, Simone Rocha, Phoebe Philo, and Gabriela Hearst continue to pioneer new models of sustainability and entrepreneurship, challenging conglomerates to evolve.
Looking ahead, progress is likely to be incremental rather than exponential. Diversity targets, consumer expectations, and cultural shifts will drive more openings, but women will still be judged on financial results as much as their male peers. The most successful maisons of the next decade will balance inclusivity with performance, proving that gender diversity is both a creative and commercial advantage.
From CEOs guiding billion-euro conglomerates to creative directors reshaping heritage houses and entrepreneurs setting global trends, women are redefining leadership in fashion.
Francesca Bellettini’s turnaround mandate at Gucci, Delphine Arnault’s stewardship of Dior, Leena Nair’s people-first leadership at Chanel, Chemena Kamali’s revival of Chloé, and Stella McCartney’s sustainability-driven independence all underscore the breadth of female impact across the industry.
As of 2025, women remain underrepresented at the very top, but their influence is undeniable. They are not only preserving heritage but also driving digital transformation, inclusivity, and sustainability. While progress may be gradual, the direction is clear: women are central to shaping the future of fashion, where creativity and commerce converge.
Cover Image: Harper's Bazaar.