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From grape leather to microbial dyes, discover the next-gen fabrics driving fashion’s sustainable transformation.
Sustainability
17 September, 2025
Table of contents
The global fashion industry faces rising pressure to decarbonise and innovate. Apparel and textiles accounted for 10% of global carbon emissions and consume nearly 79 trillion litres of water annually - a footprint larger than that of international aviation and shipping combined. These figures highlight why material innovation has become central to sustainability strategies.
According to BCG, next-generation materials could account for around 8% of the global fibre market by 2030, provided they can overcome cost and scalability barriers. Strategic integration of these materials may also deliver an estimated 4% cost-of-goods reduction within five years, compared with a scenario of inaction. To unlock this potential, the industry will need to mobilise investment, alongside deeper collaboration between fashion brands, suppliers, and regulators.
In 2025, a new wave of sustainable fabrics is emerging - alternatives to leather, fur, synthetics, and entirely new systems that transform how garments are dyed and manufactured. Below we explore the most promising innovations already gaining traction.
Made from winemaking by-products such as grape skins and seeds, grape leather transforms agricultural waste into a durable, animal-free alternative. French innovator Planet of the Grapes produces material that is already 84% bio-based, while Italian pioneer Vegea has scaled collaborations across fashion and interiors.
Case Study: Stella McCartney partnered with Veuve Clicquot to create accessories from Vegea grape leather, including the Frayme bucket bag and Elyse platform sandals. Danish label Ganni has also used Vegea grape leather as part of its commitment to phase out animal leather.
UK-based Colorifix engineers microbes to reproduce natural colours, offering a radical alternative to synthetic dyeing. The technology reduces water pollution, eliminates toxic mordants, and cuts energy usage while being compatible with existing dyeing equipment. Recognised as an Earthshot Prize finalist, Colorifix is moving toward industrial scale with dyeing hubs in the UK and India.
Case Study: Colorifix has collaborated with Pangaia and Vollebak on capsule collections using microbial dyes, and has ongoing pilots with H&M to integrate the technology into its global supply chain.
New York start-up Simplifyber transforms natural fibres into a cellulose-based liquid that can be moulded into garments and footwear components. By eliminating cutting and sewing, the process reduces waste and shortens production steps. In 2025, Simplifyber raised $12 million in Series A funding to expand beyond fashion into automotive and consumer goods.
Case Study: Simplifyber collaborated with Ganni to launch the “Moon Shoe” prototype, demonstrating moulded cellulose uppers as a scalable alternative to leather or synthetics.
Italian start-up Savian Bio (formerly BioFluff) is pioneering the first fully plant-based alternative to fur. Instead of relying on polyester or acrylic, which shed microplastics, Savian uses fibres such as hemp, linen, and nettle to recreate the warmth, softness, and texture of animal fur. The result is a biodegradable, animal-free textile that avoids the ethical and environmental pitfalls of both real and faux fur.
Case Study: At COP28 in Dubai, Savian announced a collaboration with Stella McCartney, who integrated the plant-based fur into her sustainable collections. This partnership positions Savian as a credible next-gen material supplier in luxury fashion, building on McCartney’s long-standing commitment to avoiding animal-derived fur and leather
Amsterdam-based Caffe Inc. is pioneering natural dyes and inks made from spent coffee grounds. Coffee contains pigments such as melanoidins and polyphenols, which can be extracted to produce warm brown and earthy tones. By transforming this abundant by-product - with over 9 billion kilograms of coffee waste generated globally each year - the company reduces landfill waste while providing a sustainable alternative to synthetic chemical dyes.
Case Study: In partnership with Bonne Suits and Boro*Atelier, Caffe Inc. launched a capsule collection of sustainable suits dyed with coffee-based pigments. The collection featured three tones - Mocca, Charcoal, and Raw Green - demonstrating the versatility of waste-derived colourants in fashion. Beyond fashion, the start-up also works with research partner Spark904 to develop scalable dye and pigment applications for textiles and packaging, bridging the gap from lab to industrial production
Valupa takes microbial biotechnology beyond fabrics into the world of fashion hardware. By feeding starch to microorganisms, the company grows structural components such as buckles, buttons, and toggles. These are fully compostable and can break down without leaving plastic waste. Such hardware often goes unnoticed in sustainability debates, yet millions of plastic and metal accessories are produced each year. Valupa’s process reduces dependency on oil-derived plastics and heavy resource use in metal casting, while offering designers the chance to embed circularity at every stage of the garment. At present, scaling and achieving consistent strength comparable to conventional components are the key technical barriers.
At Central Saint Martins’ Living Systems Lab in London, researchers are pushing fashion into a bio-fabrication frontier. They are exploring co-growing textiles with mycelium (mushroom roots), bacteria, and algae, as well as experimenting with bio-printing techniques inspired by natural growth patterns. These materials are not yet ready for mass adoption, but they demonstrate the potential of “living textiles” that could adapt, self-repair, or biodegrade after use. Early prototypes have been exhibited in art and design installations, signalling their potential in avant-garde luxury fashion where storytelling and innovation matter as much as utility. The main hurdles are durability, washability, and regulatory clearance for incorporating living organisms in consumer goods.
A growing wave of start-ups is diversifying the alternatives to animal leather and fossil-derived synthetics. Uncaged Innovations produces composites from agricultural residues and plant fibres, aiming for durability and scalability in accessories and footwear. Designers are also experimenting with hemp-based high heels, leveraging hemp’s strength, renewability, and lower environmental footprint compared to cotton or plastics. These solutions add to a crowded field that already includes cactus leather, apple skin leather, and Piñatex (pineapple leaves). The competition indicates strong demand, but cost, texture consistency, and commercial scaling remain the main differentiators for success.
Beyond the primary headline materials, several emerging innovations are gaining momentum at material expos and through start-ups. These help fill out the landscape of sustainable options and show where new breakthroughs may come from.
What it is: Rootfull (a design/creative studio) teamed up with footwear brand Purified to grow shoe soles and components that are designed to return to the earth after use. The idea is to use living root systems (from plants) that are guided to form lattice-structures, combining growth with post-consumer waste input (for example, natural latex from old outsoles) to close loops in natural circularity.
Where it stands / stats:
Purified’s core mission is building zero-plastic, compostable footwear, with materials like Bananatex® for uppers (a fibre from the Abaca banana plant), latex soles harvested from the Hevea tree, and a glue-free binding system.
The “Abaca” zero-plastic sneaker by Purified, launched in 2024, proved in soil tests to enrich soil when composted. The sole is made by Natural Fiber Welding (NFW) and the upper by Bananatex.
What it is: Lab Denim Inc. is a biotechnology and textile company developing post-weave colourisation, meaning denim is coloured after weaving (not via traditional dyeing of yarns with synthetic indigo etc.). This process uses digital finishing and bio-based chemistry. According to their website, they reduce water use by over 90% versus conventional denim dyeing processes.
Case / claims:
Their tech avoids indigo dyes, which are resource-intensive, and uses bio-based finishes.
Lab Denim describes their process as not only eco-friendlier, but also as reducing manufacturing time and chemical exposure.
While the momentum around next-gen materials is strong, several hurdles prevent them from achieving mainstream adoption.
Consumers expect new fabrics to meet or exceed the benchmarks set by conventional leather, cotton, or synthetics. Many biomaterials are still being tested for resistance to abrasion, water, and UV exposure. Feedback from early pilots shows that longevity is often the single greatest barrier to wider adoption.
Most next-gen alternatives remain two to three times more expensive than established textiles. Analysts estimate that billions in annual investment will be required to achieve commercial scale and cost parity. Until then, many of these innovations will remain limited to capsule launches or luxury collaborations rather than mass-market adoption.
Compostability and biodegradability claims can be misleading if disposal infrastructure is lacking. Less than one percent of textiles today are recycled back into new garments, which means even materials designed for circularity often end up in landfill or incineration. Blends with polyurethane or other synthetics further complicate recycling.
By 2026, new rules such as the EU’s Digital Product Passport and Ecodesign regulations will require brands to disclose detailed information on material composition, chemical safety, and recyclability. This will place additional pressure on innovators to provide verifiable data and certifications before their products can scale globally.
Over half of sustainability claims made by fashion brands in recent years have been flagged as vague or misleading. With regulators tightening oversight of environmental marketing, brands must back up their adoption of new materials with transparent lifecycle data and third-party validation, or risk consumer backlash.
Next-gen materials are expected to gain significant traction this decade. According to BCG, they could account for 8% of the global fibre market by 2030, equivalent to around 13 million tons, compared to less than 1% today. Strategic adoption could also reduce the cost of goods sold by about 4% within five years, but achieving this will require stronger investments and partnerships between brands and suppliers.
Consumer appetite is also shifting. A survey by First Insight found that 73% of Gen Z shoppers are willing to pay more for sustainable fashion, positioning early adopters of innovative materials to build stronger loyalty. At the same time, regulatory deadlines are approaching: the EU’s Digital Product Passport is due by 2026, while many regions are targeting a 50% reduction in textile waste by 2030.
Together, these forces suggest that by the late 2020s microbial dyes, grape leather, and moulded cellulose will move beyond niche pilots into mainstream collections, while more experimental living systems and bioprinted textiles will remain primarily in luxury storytelling.
Cover Image: Stella McCartney Official Website.
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